My trusty RockShox Recon Silver had one broken bushing as shown in my previous post. I believed that the bushings could not be changed as 2011 Recon (Silver) manual says so, but then I heard that they could be replaced and looked into 2013 manual which did not contain the info, that lower legs should be replaced after bushing wear.
I then tried to reason between running it with the broken bushing until it breaks, taking it to local shop for bushing replacement or buying new bushing and trying to fix it by myself.
The little engineer/mechanic in me took over and soon I was googling how the bushing could be replaced. I finally found a post on mtbr.com forums that had some good stuff written by username bad mechanic . So I ordered new 32mm bushings and started gathering materials for the tools.
M12 washer seemed to be properly oversized to make the extractor tool.
It was once again time remove the lower legs for cleaning. This was supposed to be simple task, but as usual, it was not.
After removing air I noticed that the travel was limited and thought could it be the damper as previously today someone told me that argyle damper was too long on his Recon Silver. Apparently the damper is shorter on 2016 models.
It is best to have as much light as possible when mountain biking in the dark. Mostly this means to have at least two reasonably powerful lamps, one in the handlebar and another in your helmet. The one in the handlebar should point pretty close to give you peripheral visibility in front of you while spotting the route ahead.
I wanted to have some easy mounting solution for my helmets and GoPro mount was an easy choice as I already had some mounts on my helmets. I started working with an J-buckle as it already has holes in it for easy screw attachments.
I then took a small piece of 20mm electrical tubing and attached it to the mount. First try revealed that there was a small clearance issue between the rubber band on the lamp and GoPro mount.
I heard/read multiple instances of people pondering if they should or shouldn’t change their tire and/or shock pressure for winter. This got me thinking how much of a change there is and should I take it into account?
Science to the rescue!
In this scenario the amount of gas ( nR ) does not change and also the change in volume is not significant. We can then derive the following equation to calculate the necessary fill pressure to achieve a desired riding pressure, based on the temperatures of filling and riding.
I have a 125mm RockShox Reverb (A1) in my Enduro bike. The bike was bought second hand and the Reverb had some sag and extended easily if bike was lifted from the saddle. So it was clearly in need for full rebuild but I was lazy and kept riding as it still mostly worked.
Then came winter weather with -10 degrees C, which was enough for the Reverb in its current condition and it didn’t stay up anymore. At home I took it from the bike and it had leaked oil (or something similar but more gooey) under it, no use trying to fix it by pumping more air.
After monitoring my current 2×10 (32-24 : 11-34) gear usage and comparing different oval chainrings I came to a conclusion, that Doval 30T 3032OCP would be good for my usage, but also ordered 32T 104bcd version.
only oval that is available for 104bcd in 30T size with the 3032 mounting system and 99.5bcd
“double oval” i.e. rapid transition to minor axis after power stroke on major axis (see mtbr forum for more pictures and details)